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غرفة سوريا الثقافية
Started by soukrat at 07-09-2008 09:07 PM. Topic has 87 replies.
 
 
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07-09-2008, 09:07 PM
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soukrat

Joined on 11-20-2005
germany
Posts 11,465

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Great journeys: Palmyra to Damascus by coach
In the final part of her adventure, Vicky Frost takes the coach into the heat of Syria's capital and explores its architecture and bustling souq
Welcome shade ... inside the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus, Syria. Photograph: Vicky Frost
For the final leg of our journey, from Palmyra to Damascus, we decide to brave the coach. Tickets cost a princely 200 Syrian pounds each - around £2 - and the journey takes an air-conditioned three hours, during which time we were entertained by some kind of Benny Hill meets Casualty comedy in Arabic, played on loop.
We chatted to a psychology student from Damascus with impeccable English, who ripped through the standard questions: "Where are you from? Are you married? (if yes - Do you have kids? If no - Why not?) And how much do you earn?" Rude? No, just the standard opening lines.
On the road to Damascus. Photograph: Vicky Frost Which is not to say travelling in Syria with only a smattering of Arabic is entirely straightforward. A cab ride into the city from the coach stop was slightly fraught: the driver spent much time giggling at our attempts to speak the language, more time shouting good-naturedly at us in Arabic, and an alarming portion of the journey steering with his knees while flicking through our guidebook laughing. It was all jolly enough, if a bit hard on the nerves.
Damascus has a different feel from Aleppo. It is hotter, for a start, with the temperatures steadily climbing on each day of our visit. Walking through the city and its streets rammed with horn-blowing cars, the sun was dazzling, bouncing off the street and walls. But that is nothing as compared with the Umayyad Mosque.
In the centre of Damscus' old town, stands this huge, gleaming architecturally astonishing mosque. After donning the obligatory (for non-Muslim women) hooded robe, and leaving our shoes at the entrance, we stepped out on to a vast, polished marble courtyard - the flags so hot beneath our feet we had to dance towards the shade, where families, couples, and groups of friends sprawled out of the heat. Inside, the prayer hall stretched along the length of the courtyard; in the centre people posed for pictures beside the shrine of John the Baptist
Great journeys: Palmyra to Damascus by coach
In the final part of her adventure, Vicky Frost takes the coach into the heat of Syria's capital and explores its architecture and bustling souq
Welcome shade ... inside the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus, Syria. Photograph: Vicky Frost
For the final leg of our journey, from Palmyra to Damascus, we decide to brave the coach. Tickets cost a princely 200 Syrian pounds each - around £2 - and the journey takes an air-conditioned three hours, during which time we were entertained by some kind of Benny Hill meets Casualty comedy in Arabic, played on loop.
We chatted to a psychology student from Damascus with impeccable English, who ripped through the standard questions: "Where are you from? Are you married? (if yes - Do you have kids? If no - Why not?) And how much do you earn?" Rude? No, just the standard opening lines.
On the road to Damascus. Photograph: Vicky Frost Which is not to say travelling in Syria with only a smattering of Arabic is entirely straightforward. A cab ride into the city from the coach stop was slightly fraught: the driver spent much time giggling at our attempts to speak the language, more time shouting good-naturedly at us in Arabic, and an alarming portion of the journey steering with his knees while flicking through our guidebook laughing. It was all jolly enough, if a bit hard on the nerves.
Damascus has a different feel from Aleppo. It is hotter, for a start, with the temperatures steadily climbing on each day of our visit. Walking through the city and its streets rammed with horn-blowing cars, the sun was dazzling, bouncing off the street and walls. But that is nothing as compared with the Umayyad Mosque.
In the centre of Damscus' old town, stands this huge, gleaming architecturally astonishing mosque. After donning the obligatory (for non-Muslim women) hooded robe, and leaving our shoes at the entrance, we stepped out on to a vast, polished marble courtyard - the flags so hot beneath our feet we had to dance towards the shade, where families, couples, and groups of friends sprawled out of the heat. Inside, the prayer hall stretched along the length of the courtyard; in the centre people posed for pictures beside the shrine of John the Baptist.
Religious sites here are welcoming to visitors, both Christian and Muslim; the day before we had headed out of the city on a Sunday morning for the small, mainly Greek Catholic village of Maalula. Aramaic is still spoken here and we walked through a cleft in the rockface from the Convent of St Theda, where mass was in full swing, to the Monastery of St Sergius and its tiny Byzantine church.
Leaving the mosque, the main stretch of the souq brought a welcome blast of cool; the high roof pierced with tiny holes that allow streams of light to filter to the shoppers below. Eating huge, pistachio-nut smothered, sticky ice-creams from Bakdash, one of several packed ice-cream parlours along the stretch, we perused the bargains on offer. And there were many: hand-printed tablecloths, woven silk throws, hand-stitched rugs from Iran and beyond, wooden furniture and boxes adorned with inlaid designs and mother of pearl, bright strands of silver jewellery, handmade leather goods. We bought so much (and for so little I was too embarrassed to haggle), we ended up at the post office - strung with I Heart Syria bunting, of course — where they packaged our stuff up with such panache, it was like a theatrical performance. (And, yes, everything arrived home safely).
We had one last trip to make, a day excursion from Damascus by car - just. And so we purred round the hillside, climbing ever upwards towards the crusader castle of Krak de Chevaliers. With few other tourists for company, we charged around the ramparts, stampeded across the drawbridge and did battle on the, um, battlements - the setting was so filmic, it was hard to resist the urge.
We stood on top of the tallest tower of this incredible castle high above the fertile fields below with the sun beating down, the smell of gently barbecuing chicken wafting on the breeze, and nobody else in sight. So was it worth 35 hours on a train to get here? The bunk beds, the invisible buffet car, the delays? Every last minute.
Getting there
Qadmus run the best service to Damscus, with coaches departing on the half hour until about 7.30pm. You'll probably need to get a cab to the bus stop which is outside the Sahara Café on the edge of town — you'll find a ticket booth there and a single to Damascus costs about 200 Syrian Pounds (around £2). The coach is air-conditioned and takes about three hours. It often leaves early. It will also drop you some way outside Damascus. Expect a cab into town to cost about 500 Syrian pounds.
Accommodation We stayed with friends in the city, but it is well provided with chains and boutique hotels. Beit Al Mamlouka was the city's first boutique hotel, a 17th-century bulding with eight bedrooms in the old city, but comes in at a hefty $297 + 12% tax a night. A cheaper option is Dar Al Yasmin, a Hotel du Charme, which comes in at $114 a night
Eating Leila's has a great terrace and brilliant food — you'll find it just down from the Umayyad Mosque, which means no alcohol. The food has a strong Lebanese influence, and the hummus was the best we tasted in Syria (and we tasted a lot). The goat labneh (yoghurt cheese) is particularly delicious.
http://bsam.4t.com/
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07-09-2008, 09:13 PM
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soukrat

Joined on 11-20-2005
germany
Posts 11,465

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Great journeys: Istanbul to Aleppo by train
In the first part of her overland journey into the Middle East, Vicky Frost boards the Toros Express in Istanbul bound for Aleppo
Rolling along ... the Toros Express travels through the Turkish countryside from Istanbul to Aleppo. Photograph: Vicky Frost
It must be an extremely odd life, perched behind the counter of a tiny train station kiosk in central Turkey. Quiet, quiet, quiet … then a bedraggled looking crowd of ravenous passengers rushing towards you at top speed, jumping down from gently aging carriages and legging it across the platform to load up with bread, sausage and hard-boiled eggs. Then 15 minutes later … quiet, quiet, quiet again.
Every Sunday morning the optimistically named Toros Express leaves Istanbul's magnificent Hydrapasa station for Aleppo in northern Syria, where it's due to arrive 30 hours later. Not a journey for those in a rush, admittedly — but as we sat happily picnicking on our kiosk spoils on the cabin sofa, watching the olive groves, pistachio trees and herds of cattle whizz past the window, there was a certain romance to proceedings; although not a sniff of a buffet car, despite a rather hopeful knife and fork sign at the end of the carriage. Beyond it? The snake of train track leading back to Europe.
A local man plays the oud (an Arabic lute) in the old city of Aleppo As the sun set, we stuck our heads out of the window like dogs in a hot car, peering at the front of the train as it wound through the Turkish countryside. Farmers waved from their fields, the light began to fade, and I began to think that the train is a remarkably civilised way to travel (not to mention, of course, cheap. Even including the Istanbul travel agents' booking fee, tickets were only £60 each). We cracked open our bottle of raki, lay out our super-clean, starched bed linen, and settled in for the night.
Five hours late, the train rolled into Aleppo. We rolled into a cab, and, finally, into our hotel. The city has been gradually renovating its beautiful 17th-century houses, transforming them into boutique hotels and restaurants. Our room at the Mandaloun (mandalounhotel.com, doubles around $100pn) opened out on to a central courtyard and a fountain, the richly tiled floors were cool beneath our heavy, train-lagged feet, and – most importantly of all — nothing was actually moving. And we didn't have to sleep in (albeit ingeniously designed) bunk beds.
Tell people you are visiting Syria and most first reactions are: Why? And then: Isn't it a bit dangerous? I am certainly not going to try and excuse the ruling regime — and if you view visiting Syria as endorsing that, you may wish to travel elsewhere. But — and this does not change the first point — Syria is not a dangerous place for travellers; it is surprisingly secular, the people are enormously welcoming, and, as a woman, I experienced little of the hassle of Turkey.
The country is also home to what is an almost embarrassing number of historic sights: Aleppo's imposing citadel rises above the centre, giving views beyond the old city to the suburbs and industry beyond. Essentially, the ethos here seems to be — here's the sight, have a look around. No barriers, no roped-off areas, no handrails, and, frankly, no safety. But adventure; lots of that. And space. With visitor numbers low, you can stand alone in the citadel's 13th-century great mosque, or sit high up next to its domed roof and gaze over the ruins with only the occasional figure emerging from arched doorways or behind crumbling walls to break the spell.
Altogether less restful was Aleppo's souq; rammed with city dwellers doing their shopping, and stalls selling just about anything you could need — and lots you don't. A quick mint-lemonade from a juice stand later and we were pushing through a lane of haberdashery merchants, en route to a silver shop run by a former Mr Universe runner up. Out came the goods, alongside photos of him painted a deep mahogany and in alarmingly small Speedos. We joked, he showed us a picture of his little girl, I tried a necklace on. It was not quite what I wanted. No problem — we could always come back. Or, you know, just nice to meet you.
After the hard-sell of Istanbul's Grand Bazaar, the chance to just wander shoulder to jostling shoulder with Aleppo's residents, was a relief — and Mr Would-Be Universe's charm was in evidence throughout the city; "Welcome, welcome," became the refrain for our trip. A tour of the Museum of Popular Tradition, housed in the incredible Beit Ajiqbash in the al-Jdeida district, became a very personal (and hilarious) experience as we were literally run round the exhibits by the museum's keeper — his top-speed commentary never faltering for a second as we skipped round rooms containing everything from agricultural machinery to intricately embroidered clothes and inlaid furniture.
Al-Jdeida is also home to Aleppo's — and perhaps Syria's — finest restaurants. We wandered through an unassuming wooden door and down one of the area's narrow, winding lanes into Beit as-Sissi (+963 21 212 4362, sissihouse.com), walking out of the shimmering heat into the restaurant's cool stone courtyard strewn with greenery and packed with tables. Food followed the inescapable mezze-then-kebab format, but there was plenty of choice: tabbouleh, hummus and baba ghanoush, of course, but also roasted red pepper dips, warm kibbeh (like scotch eggs made from minced lamb and bulgar wheat filled with a variety of (non-eggy) fillings), borek, and fattoush — a green salad with tomatoes, toasted bread and a citrussy dressing.
At which point — because you're obviously not full enough — the kebabs came out, with cherries, or a spicy tomato sauce; or chicken fresh from the grill. Chuck in a few glasses of arak (the local aniseedy spirit — just add water) and you'll still struggle to spend more than £20 on a long, delicious, dinner for two. And if you're pushed for cash? Shwarma (kebab) and falafel stalls are cheap and plentiful.
Tomorrow … into Syria's northeast desert
Getting there
EasyJet fly Luton-Istanbul from £51.98 inc all taxes. The Toros Express leaves Istanbul's Haydarpasa station early on Sunday mornings, due to arrive on Monday afternoon, but invariably rolling up around eight in the evening. Book via the Tur-ista agency in Istanbul (erdemir@tur-ista.com
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/jul/01/railtravel.syria.istanbul?page=2
Great journeys: Aleppo to Palmyra by cab
In the second part of her adventure in the Middle East, Vicky Frost sees the dawn and history of Palmyra
Palmyra's Roman arches at dawn ... 'It's as if we are alone in history'. Photograph: Vicky Frost
Food is not the high point of our stay at Palmyra, the oasis in Syria's northeastern desert. This is one of the world's most amazing historical sites, with grand, colonnaded Roman streets rising out of the desert sands; temples and tombs uncovered for centuries after the city fell into ruin following Queen Zenobia's capture.
We travel from Aleppo by car, stopping briefly in the city of Hama, lush and green along the banks of the Orontes, with ancient waterwheels rising above the city's houses and shops. And then it's into the desert, a barren moonscape speckled with Bedouin tents and animals, with a single road winding through it. We pass signs for Baghdad, a solitary petrol station, and - bizarrely - a mountain with "Welcome" carved into its top, which our driver points out to us, chuckling all the while.
It's quite possible to travel to Palmyra from Aleppo on public transport - but a mixture of train fatigue and chronic over-packing meant the plan to negotiate two minibuses (you have to change at Homs) doesn't survive for long. And after the bustle of the city, and its non-stop noise, the quiet of the desert and the cab is lovely - well if you discount the ancient tape of Arabic pop provided by the driver, and the happy sucking of sticky caramels as we bump along.
Palmyra, when we arrive, is overwhelming. It seems the one bit of Syria "properly" geared up for tourism (ie expensive hotels, rubbish food, lots of people trying to sell you tat), but you forgive all gripes once you step into the ruins, stretching across the sands, almost deserted save for the odd local roaring down the main Roman street by motorbike - although in the glaring afternoon sun and unrelenting wind, there's probably good reason for that. Returning to the hotel to shower away the dust, which is even stuck to my teeth, we admit defeat. Even in May, the heat is too much; like being stuck in a hairdryer on full blast for an afternoon.
It is 4.30am when we step back out into the ruins in jackets and scarves. Dawn is beginning to creep across the sky, the old stones taking on a rosy hue as the light begins to hit them. It is silent. We stand alone and in awe of the towering columns, picking our way over piles of now broken walls and arches, each rich with carvings - but here casually scattered across the ground in great piles. It's as if we are alone in history.
Tomorrow ... to Damascus by coach.
Read part one: Istanbul to Aleppo by train
Getting there
Transport: Aleppo – Palmyra
We hired a car to take us across the desert for about $100 (£50) through our hotel – and felt it was money well spent. But you can do it for a fraction of the price by public transport. By car, the journey takes just over three hours.
Accommodation
Syria's only high-end hotel chain, Cham Palace, runs the Hotel Zenobia, which is literally in the ruins. A room with views over the ruins costs around $110 (£55) and if you're determined to get up at dawn and see the place at its best, you can't get more convenient. There's a decent bathroom, aircon etc but it has none of the charm of Aleppo's hotels, and it's more expensive
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/jul/01/syria.rail
http://bsam.4t.com/
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07-09-2008, 09:44 PM
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soukrat

Joined on 11-20-2005
germany
Posts 11,465

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http://www.seat61.com/Syria.htm
How to travel by train from
London to Syria . .
http://tvnz.co.nz/view/page/410965/451448
Syria & Jordon: Danielle Cormack
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Day one
Finally arrived after 360 hours in the air, well 36 but it feels like such a long way. On the road into Amman, the capital of Jordan, we passed all these people picnicking on the side of the road. Family after family. It would be like people eating on the median strip of the Southern Motorway. My driver managed to explain that this is like a day out for the families, it is their holy day and this is their way of getting together to do something special.
Day two
My hotel is next door to a big mosque. Religion doesnt recognize jet lag so the calling to prayer went off as usual at about 5am, maybe earlier. It is a lovely sound just a bit of a shock. A bit later, ventured into town. Met a hilarious guide who knew everything about New Zealand. Reeled off all these place names like Hamilton and Dunedin. We ended up having a Shakespearean Duel in an old amphitheatre.. very cool.
Day Three
Last day in town before heading to the desert. Ended up getting caught up in a dodgy taxi that got stopped by the police. I think the tourist industry is quite regulated and he was not paying the right man the right amount of money so things did not go too well for him big fine apparently. Met some bolshy young postcard sellers some were nearly the same age as my son I just hope they go to school. They said they did but earning money for the family has such mana here that they probably dont go as much as they should.
Day Four
Nearly ran out of petrol on the road to Wadi Rum. Incredible desert. They filmed Laurence of Arabia here and I have felt like I have been on a film set all day. It is just so impressive. My guide, Zedan, is a one-man circus. He has been singing in the truck and is still singing while roasting coffee beans on the fire for a fresh brew.
Day Five
Great meal last night. The Bedouin version of a hangi. They dig a 44-gallon drum into the sand, light a fire at the bottom and then stack food in big wire grates in on top of the embers. They throw a lid on it and bury it with sand. Delicious. Also a great nights sleep no calling to prayer in the desert.
Day Six
Petra today the ancient city carved out of stone. It is just so remarkable hard to put into words. The Treasury, the Monestary these immense buildings carved with only the most basic tools. Met a woman who is married to a Kiwi running one of the stalls. We are everywhere.
Day Seven
Had to go back to Petra for another look. It is so huge you could easily spend three whole days looking around here. Went to the Bedouin Village and met the local Sheik he asked me to be his 7th wife I think. The local Bedouins used to live in Petras caves but were moved out to clean it up for the tourists. The government built them houses but it doesnt seem like they are 100% happy here they didnt have a choice. Very friendly people& really connected with Mirriam, the current wife of the sheik who is about to give birth to her 9th child.
Day eight
On the road back to Amman. Quick stop and then it is on towards the boarder with Syria.
Day Nine
Stayed at a weird place called Dana. The place is deserted. Everyone moved out and abandoned thier homes because their was no work. Very strange feel to it. The locals are trying to turn it into a tourist retreat. Good luck.
Day Ten
Dead Sea yay! I have always wanted to do this. Water very salty like a tin of anchovies all in one hit but you are so buoyant. I put on some mud and it made my skin feel very soft. You can feel the salts and minerals in the water but make sure you wash it all off& it gets super itchy if you dont and almost burns your skin.
Day Eleven
Crossed into Syria so am in the axis of evil. I enjoyed Jordan but this is even crazier. The people are more friendly and have a great sense of humour. Went down to the main market in Damascus and got given so many cups of coffee and olives and other drinks and food. They almost kill you with kindness& not at all what I expected.
Day Twelve
Got to see inside my first Mosque. Had to wear a robe to cover me, head to foot felt a bit like a character out of Star Wars but that is how women have to be dressed to go in. It was so different to our churches. People hang out here, talk, eat, have political rallies& it is so much more alive than where we worship.
Day Thirteen
Visited a real live castle, Crac de Chevillier. Had tunnels and dungeons and everything. From the top you could look over and see the mountains that border Lebanon. Here, you are only ever a stones throw from the real hot spots. Lebanon is as close as Hamilton is to Auckland&. I am not sure how I would feel if Hamilton was under attack& It makes me realize how isolated we are, maybe not a bad thing.
Day Fourteen
Rode a camel through the ruins of Palmyra an old Greek outpost. My camel, Zenubia, was pregnant so I couldnt ride her for long. Highlight of the day was being invited into the home of a woman I met on the street. There were four generations in the same room. I couldnt really communicate with them but it was wonderful to be there with them. I gave them a peanut slab that I had with me went down a treat especially with the coffee they make very strong and black.
Day Fifteen
Have arrived in Allepo. Got here in an old 1970s Merc driven by Omar& a man who seemed to like to take his hands off the wheel. They have heaps of great old cars here that are as old as the hills and in mint condition it is so dry, rust isnt an issue. Found some real characters in the market they know all about Australia and New Zealand and keep going on about sheep shaggers where men are men and sheep are nervous is how they described New Zealand. Ducked into the Baron Hotel where Laurence stayed and had the obligatory glass of Arak. Tomorrow is my last day&.
Day Sixteen
A quick shop in the markets and its home time&. when I said I was coming to this part of the world, friends and family were nervous. The reality is that it is solely due to media perception. I have met such extreme kindness and generosity. They know how they are perceived and still go out of their way to make you feel at home&. I would come back here, to this part of the world, in a moment
Syria with its small mediterranian coastline, surrounded by Turkey, Iraq, Jordan, Israel, and Lebanon, is called one of the evil regimes, but the impression you get as a traveller is different: It is a proud, safe, polite, and friendly country.
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![Aleppo Castle, Syria, View fom my hotel Aleppo Castle, Syria, View fom my hotel]() |
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Aleppo Castle, Syria, View fom my hotel
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![]() | Expression of power is the ctadelle of Aleppo. Nobody knew the emperor, the faceless, because in throne room the light blinded the guests, they weren't able to make out his face. Fear was the basis of his power, he was able to go around town unrecognised and to find out what his people thought of him. From the plateau of the huge defensework the view of the wide stretched town, hazy in the smog, is impressive. Nearly hidden the small mosque with its quiet yard and the shadowy tree is a place of contemplation. Diligently and strenously people excavate the past and install the modern age, the amphitheater, pleasing, simple. Below the citadelle in the men's café the woman traveller smokes a waterpipe unmolested. Waklking the Christian quarter the visitor enjoys the old houses and small places. The Khan al-Wazir is lively as in old times, when the entrance was guarded by custom officers. Having given satisfaction to their demands, the traveller found accomodation, storerooms, stables, also a mosque, a synagoge, a church. What must he have had to tell of the trouble and the dangers of the journey, of sandstorms, of glaring sun and cold nights, of bandits, of illness and death! Visiting the Umayyad Mosque the visitor finds the believer and his plea in misery at the grave of Zacharias.
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![Qala'at Samaan, Syria, the rest of the column Qala'at Samaan, Syria, the rest of the column]() |
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Qala'at Samaan, Syria, the rest of the column
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![]() | North of Aleppo on a plateau, visible from far away, lies the Qalaat Seman, the monastery of St. Simeon, the stylite, who forty years of his life lived and preached on a column, chained to it, that he didn't fall of, the remnants are still to be seen. And he was listened to - crowds of pilgrims came from all over the world. That shows the layout, four basilicas, one served as a church, three for the reception of the pilgrims. A quiet place, where time seems to have come to a standstill. Below the plateau in the small garden restaurant the host sings an old lied and talks about his life, a kind man who gave his life sense. To the West of Aleppo, Apameia, one of the four key towns of the Seleucids, looks over the Al-Ghab plain as in the 3rd century. Coming through the Antioch Gate, the view opens on to the cardo with its double row of high, elaboratly decorated columns of gray granite with those covered shopping streets to both sides. What splendor!
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![El--Bara, Syria, Dead City, tomb El--Bara, Syria, Dead City, tomb]() |
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El--Bara, Syria, Dead City, tomb
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![]() | A hot day in Serjilla, one of the Dead Cities, a strange and weird sight: An abandoned, ruined town, tidied up and well kept, with a bath house and a taverne, a men's meeting place and a church, villas and private homes with carefully chiselled fronts and, not to forget, a field of very lively olive trees, waiting to be harvested. The inhabitants seem just to have gone away, but they left the place 1500 years ago. Christians of the Eastern Orthodox Church they have been and remaind Christians when the Islam arrived, and El-Bara, vast, overgrown, but used, the olive trees well kept and guarded. Between the ruins of old times a monastery appears, the house of the olive press is opened, cool and big. A towering pyramid, an old grave, demands respect. The inner room is high, the sarcophagus impressive, the stone medaillons are still profound: The fleur-de-lis, the sign of peace, and the letters, which reveal the name of Christ.
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Amir Palace, Tel.: 00963-21-2214800, a clean hotel with good food, centrally situated.
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![Aleppo, Syria, Suq, Dresses Aleppo, Syria, Suq, Dresses]() |
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Aleppo, Syria, Suq, Dresses
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![]() | The offer in the Suq is overwhelming, specially when you want to know what kind of dresses women wear under their long coats. Nobody molests the customer, the shopkeepers are self-confident and attentive, know the value of their goods and don't need to run after the potential buyer.
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| Published on Saturday January 22th, 2005 |
http://www.globosapiens.net/travel-information/Aleppo-1510.html
Palmyra, Syria, the pink town in the desert |
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Syria with its small mediterranean coastline, surrounded by Turkey, Irak, Jordan, Israel, and Lebanon, is the location of Advanced Civilisations between the Mediterranean and the Arabian Desert: The craddle of our culture.
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![The graves of the noble prople. The graves of the noble prople.]() |
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The graves of the noble prople.
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![]() | Palmyra, the town of Zenobia, isn't to describe. She lies in all her greatness and beauty in the sun light as 2000 years ago, when it was an important station for the carawanes, travelling between the Mediterranean and the countries of Mesopotamia and Arabia, a link of the silk road from China and India to Europe. In the Valley of the tombs you find the towers, constructed as multistory burial chambers, a business, as the Hypogeum of the Three Brothers proves. You enter the town by way of the Hadrian Gate, walk along the cardo, decorated with high columns, pass the tetrapylon to the agora with the house of the senat, see the Diocletian Bath and the theater, until you try to get an overview of the town and the camp of Diocletian from the height of a camel. But the description is imperfect. It is the sun light, which revives the old destroyed town, built in pink sandstone, as if it still were ínhabitated. When you look down on the town and its environment from the Qala'at ibn Maan, the Arabic castle, it seems to be nearly incomprehensible that such a town could come into being in this forlorn landscape, gray-brown and depressing as far as you can see.
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![And underneath the graves of their servants. And underneath the graves of their servants.]() |
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And underneath the graves of their servants.
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![]() | Halabiya, East of Palmyra, founded by Zenobia, the rebellious ruler of Palmyra, who even took on Rome, is another town, fortified as protection against Persian invasions. She must have been beautiful as Cleopatra, but surpassed her in chastidy and value, lovely and heroic of character, of dark complexion with pearl white teeth and large black eyes, charming, with a strong, but harmonious voice, of manly understanding and great learning (E.Gibson). - The Hellenistic Dura Europos, high above the Euphrat, with its numerous temples, church and synagogue, gives evidence of its admirablly cultural and religious pluralism and rewrites the history of the early Christian and Jewish iconography, because of the unusual mural paintings from the synagogue, pictorial representation of events of the Old Testament, to be seen in the Museum of Damascus.
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![And our guide took over the kitchen. And our guide took over the kitchen.]() |
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And our guide took over the kitchen.
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![]() | 5000 years of human effort shows Mari, 10 kilometres afar from the quiet border of Iraq, a Mesopotamian city state, in former times not only a center of commerce, controlling the trade routes from the Mediterranean to Mesopotamia, but also a center of erudition as the library with its thoussands of clay tablets shows. - Walking the suspension bridge from the 19th century in Deir-Azzor, the stroller enjoys the calmness of the riverscape of the Euphrat, forgetting the day’s unrest.
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| Accommodations: |
Villa Palmyra, Sharia al-Quwatli, Palmyra, Tel.: 00963-31-910156 Fax: 031-912554 in walking distance of the Plalyra Museum centrally situated at the Sharia al-Quwatli, a real tourist-shopping-restaurants-street. The room was small as was the bathroom, but perfectly clean, the food was good.
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| Other recommendations: |
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![In this café beside two small beehive house the young sons of the owner served delicious tea. In this café beside two small beehive house the young sons of the owner served delicious tea.]() |
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In this café beside two small beehive house the young sons of the owner served delicious tea.
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![]() | In the midst of the steppe, the boundary of formed by rigdes far away, at the crossing of the road to Bagdad and Damascus, you find the Bagdad Cafè, a low, friendly building with an adjoining pergola. The windmill fills the amphorae with water, two beehive houses are in the yard. Sheep graze nearby, the riches of the family, because one sheep cost 100.- Euro. There are also chicken, more possibility to earn a livelihood are not to be seen. The young men who serve the tee, are polite and shy. The room is decorated with small, helpless embroideries, waiting to be bought. A red scarf with yellow pearls catches the eye | |
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07-09-2008, 09:48 PM
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soukrat

Joined on 11-20-2005
germany
Posts 11,465

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Syria is the cradle of more than 30 different civilizations. It has more than 2000 historical sites. Since the first days of mankind, many kingdoms flourished in Syria: Aleppo, Damascus, Ebla, Mari, Ugarit and Palmyra.
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![Aleppo City - General View Aleppo City - General View]() |
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Aleppo City - General View
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![]() | Aleppo is the Latin name for the city and its Arabic name is Halab. Aleppo plays a vital role in the history of the area since the time of the Acadians and the Amorites. Halfway between the Euphrates and the coast, Aleppo's location made her a natural commercial depot and a busy center of traffic. Pilgrims and traders from the north also transited the city, tracing the edge of the mountains rather than the rugged coast, down through Damascus to Makkah. The dynamism and raw energy of Aleppo have captivated travelers for ages. Gertrude Bell, in Amurath to Amurath, was one. If there be a better gate to Asia than Aleppo, I do not know it. A virile population, a splendid architecture, the quickening sense of a fine Arab tradition have combined to give the town an individuality sharply cut, and more than any Syrian city she seems instinct with an inherent vitality. The princes who drew the line of massive masonry about her flanks and led her armies against the emperors of the West, the merchants who gathered the wealth of inner Asia into her bazaars and bartered it against the riches of the Levant Company have handed down the spirit of enterprise to the latest of her sons. Today, Aleppo is a distribution point for neighboring countries' goods, and a market for the hinterland's bounty: cotton, grain, pistachios, olives, produce, and sheep. Situated on the silk road, Aleppo is a platform of meetings and exchanges between the East and the West. |
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| Favourite spots: |
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![A Traditional Aleppo House with carved stone interior & fountain A Traditional Aleppo House with carved stone interior & fountain]() |
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A Traditional Aleppo House with carved stone interior & fountain
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![]() | Aleppo has the most beautiful markets (souks) in the world, superb khans, numerous mosques and churches, very nice Islamic schools and beautiful nature. Its citadel is magnificent and its wall and gates well reputed for their powerful and very well-engineered structure. The most attractive landmark of Aleppo is its unique citadel. A magnificent enormous fortress, considered to be one of the oldest in the region. The hill the Citadel stands on dates back to the 16th century BC. Later it was said Abraham milked his cow there. Saladin's son, Ghazi, used it as both residence & fortress. The present structure and designs of the citadel is Ghazi's work. The sole entrance to the Citadel is through the outer tower in the south, magnificent gateway is almost a castle in itself with stone arched bridge covering a 22m moat. The Ayyubid palace includes an iwan, and a Hammam. You will also find a modern built Amphitheater used for entertainment and civil occasions. |
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| What's really great: |
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The great citadel, the narrow lanes and passages covered with stone. The grand bazzar which forms the longest covered market in the world. The fine decoration of building exteriors in Aleppo are very noticeable, both old & modern parts of the city. The grand mosque, the shrine of John the Baptist and the religious schools with their exquisite design and style. The big and numerous khans all around the souks, which now in our days are business centres where all traders are located. The gates around the old city are so beautiful especially Bab Antakia, Ban Al-Nesreen, Bab Al-Hadid, Bab Al-Nasr (Triumph Gate), all around these gates there exists the neighbourhood where my ancestors lived earlier this century. You will also be fascinated by the gracious and luxurious design of Aleppo's new buildings, especially those new buildings with the fines exterior desins with carved stones and fancy surroundings. I can tell more about Aleppo, especially people and food, but I am limited in space. |
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| Sights: |
Aleppo Citadel Aleppo National Park Saadallah Al-Jabri Square Old Souks, (Al-Medineh), Khan El-Jumruk and Khan Al-Harir
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| Accommodations: |
Chahba Cham Hotel Pallman Al-Chahbaa Amir Palace Baron Hotel - where Agatha Christie stayed for a while with her husband.
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| Nightlife: |
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![Palace Court at Aleppo Citadel Palace Court at Aleppo Citadel]() |
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Palace Court at Aleppo Citadel
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![]() | Al-Ettihad Community Club Al-Chahba Community Club
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| Hangouts: |
Pubs that are located in the above-mentioned 5-star hotels.
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| Restaurants: |
There is a wide choice of fine restaurants in Aleppo and I would recommend Kabab Abu Hassan, Falafel Abu Abdo and Fawwal Al-Jedaideh for traditional Aleppo food :)
To be serious I dined in Sisi House in Jedaideh and it was a very nice place being an old - but renovated traditional house - with fountains and terrace.
Also Al-Yasmeen House and Dar Zemraya...
Other restaurants at Al-Shallal area which I only fancy them for sitting outside.
Oh yeah, you can also enjoy food in Grand Station and Grand House |
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| Other recommendations: |
There are some very beautiful places outside Aleppo with magnificent views of nature.... I cannot recall the names now. (someone could suggest some names for me). Also some other sights renown for archelogical and religious importance like St. Simon's Cathedral. |
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| Published on Wednesday June 15th, 2005 |
http://www.globosapiens.net/
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07-09-2008, 09:54 PM
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soukrat

Joined on 11-20-2005
germany
Posts 11,465

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http://www.globosapiens.net/country/syria_travel-tips.html
Hotel Canal Suez - Travel tip by daniserralta |
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Member opinion: It have an excellent location in the new city, really close to the old city, the Umayyad Mosque, citadel and Salahdin mausoleum, bazaar, etc... Clean, safe, central heater specially useful in winter!!, bathroom inside. Was 500Syrian Pounds and that means like 10Usd$. Cheap street restaurants around to buy great shawarmas for 50 SP. |
Algawaher Hotel - Travel tip by daniserralta |
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Member opinion: Great hotel in the heart of Aleppo. In a walking distance to the souq and to the Citadel. Clean, nice and helpful staff. Cheap and with or without bathroom. Plenty of cheap shawarma shops around. Great option |
http://bsam.4t.com/
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07-11-2008, 12:14 AM
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soukrat

Joined on 11-20-2005
germany
Posts 11,465

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«بارون».. الفندق الأقدم في حلب
في الغرفة 213 أقامت أغاثا كريستي وفي 202 أقام لورانس العرب
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الفندق بهندسته المميزة في الخارج («الشرق الأوسط») |
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الغرفة التي مكثت فيها اغاثا كريستي |
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دمشق: هشام عدرة تخيل نفسك ـ عزيزي القارئ والسائح ـ أنك تنام في غرفة نامت فيها شخصيات عالمية مشهورة ومهمة منذ عشرات السنين، فمثلاً أن تنام في غرفة نام فيها لورانس العرب أو أغاثا كريستي أو الزعيم التركي التاريخي كمال أتاتورك أو الملك فيصل الأول أو رائد الفضاء يوري غاغارين؟!... هذا الخيال سيكون حقيقة في مدينة حلب عاصمة الشمال السوري ومركز البلاد الاقتصادي الأول والمدينة العريقة في أضخم قلاع العالم وفي أطول أسواق قديمة فيه. ففي قلب مدينة حلب وفي أهم وأقدم شارع عصري في المدينة، يقع أشهر وأول فندق أخذ من اسم الشارع تسميته وهو: (بارون) الذي أسسه الأرمني أرمين مظلوميان عام 1911 وبارون في اللغة الأرمنية تعني (السيد)، حيث كان النزلاء الأجانب ينادون صاحبه أرمين بها، ويذكر بعض المهتمين بتاريخ الفندق وصاحبه أن (أرمين مظلوميان المؤسس للفندق) منع من دخول تركيا لأنه كان يستضيف في الفندق أعضاء الكتلة الوطنية وقادة النضال ضد الاستعمار في سورية، حيث كانت تربطه بهم علاقات صداقة متينة ومنذ افتتاحه شهد الفندق إقامة الكثير من المشاهير في العالم وكانت فكرة المؤسس للفندق ومن ثم الحفيد الذي يدير الفندق حالياً ويأخذ نفس اسم جدّه (أرمين مظلوميان) أن يحافظ على الفندق وغرفه كما هي مع بعض أعمال الترميم في المبنى، خاصة في الطابق الأخير منه حتى يتمكن المبنى من مقاومة ظروف الزمن وتوالي السنين، فالفندق يقع في ثلاثة وفي الطابق الأرضي منه تقع مكاتب وكالات السفر ومكاتب لحجز تذاكر المسافرين والقادمين، ومكتب لنادي السيارات السوري، وحرص أصحاب الفندق أيضاً على إبقاء الغرف التي أقام بها المشاهير كما هي بأثاثها ومقتنياتها فما زال السرير هو هو، وما زالت طاولات وكراسي الجلوس كما هي في كل غرفة من الفندق والزائر للفندق سيعرف مباشرة أن هذه الغرفة أو تلك أقامت فيها الشخصيات المهمة، حيث صورهم معلقة في الغرف التي أقاموا بها وحيث أبقى مظلوميان كل غرفة أقاموا بها تحمل عنوان الشخصية التي نامت فيها عند زيارتها لمدينة حلب كما أسس مظلوميان سجلاً ذهبياً للفندق فيه أسماء كل من زار وأقام في هذا الفندق النادر كما يحوي كلمات وتقديرات عدد كبير من الشخصيات المهمة التي أقامت به.
إدارة الفندق تحدثت عن تاريخ إنشائه وقالت إنه في النصف الأخير من القرن التاسع عشر، قرر (كريكور بارون) أن ينشر صناعة الفنادق في مدينة حلب بعد أن عاد لتوه من القدس، حيث كان في الحج وقرر أن يفتتح أول فندق، حيث سماه (أرارات) نسبة إلى جبل أرارات الشهير وتابع فيما بعد ولداه:( أوينغ وأرمين) نفس التقليد ببناء فندقين على مدى خمس سنوات وهما قصرا حلب والعزيزية وأسسوا فندقاً ثالثاً أسموه البارك وفيما بعد قرر أرمين دمج الفنادق الثلاثة المتجاورة مع بعضها وأطلق عليها اسم فندق بارون، واليوم ـ تقول ادارة الفندق ـ ومع الخبرة لقرن كامل من الاستمرار في المزايا الخاصة بالفندق وفترات الازدهار التي عاشها ويعيشها الفندق وأسماء المشاهير الذين قرأوا التاريخ فلا تخشى ادارة الفندق مزاحمة الفنادق الجديدة التي أقيمت في مدينة حلب في السنوات الأخيرة فلفندق بارون نكهة خاصة ووقوعه وسط المدينة بجوار أهم الأسواق القديمة والعصرية كالعزيزية والتلل وغيرها يجعل السياح يأتونه للإقامة به. ويلاحظ أن النسبة العظمى ممن يرغب الإقامة في الفندق هم من السياح الأوروبيين والغربيين عموماً الذين تأسرهم خصوصية وعراقة الفندق ومعنوية غرفه التي تحمل الأسماء الشهيرة التي أقامت به. ولم تتوان ادارة الفندق عن وضع بعض الخدمات العصرية فيه وفي غرفه كالمكيفات والتلفاز وغيرها كما أنه يضم مطعماً عريقاً وباراً.
ونجول مع أبرز الشخصيات التي أقامت في الفندق، ففي الغرفة رقم 202 أقام لورانس العرب وما زالت الغرفة من الداخل محتفظة بأثاثها وصورة له معلقة على جدرانها وفي الغرفة 213 أقامت الكاتبة البوليسية الشهيرة أغاثا كريستي مع زوجها عالم ومنقب الآثار المستشرق متر ماكس فالوين، حيث أنجزت في هذه الغرفة بعضاً من كتبها البوليسية والأدبية، كذلك أقام في الفندق أول رائد فضاء في العالم:( يوري غاغارين) وأقامت فيه أيضاً رائدة الفضاء الروسية فالنتينا تيلشكوفا وأقام فيه الزعيم التركي كمال أتاتورك والرئيس الراحل حافظ الأسد، حيث أمضى فيه خمسة عشر يوماً ورئيس دولة الامارات العربية المتحدة الراحل الشيخ زايد بن سلطان وأمير اليونان بيتر وتيودر روزفلت والملك غوستاف أدولف ولويزا ملكة السويد وأنغريد ملكة الدانمارك وبيرتل أمير السويد وراكيفلر والأمير إليس والملك فيصل الأول الذي كان أول حاكم لسورية بعد الحرب العالمية الأولى واستقلالها عن الدولة العثمانية. الوصول إلى الفندق: الوصول إلى الفندق سهل جداً، حيث ترتبط مدينة حلب مع المدن والعديد من عواصم العالم بخطوط جوية من خلال مطارها القريب من المدينة وكذلك هناك سكة القطار التي تعبرها وتصلها بكافة مدن سورية والعاصمة دمشق ويمر منها أيضاً قطار الشرق السريع التاريخي الشهير كما أن حلب ترتبط بمدينة اللاذقية على شاطئ المتوسط بطريق دولي جميل يمر عبر الجبال الساحلية الرائعة ويبلغ طوله حوالي 180 كلم وبزمن حوالي 3 ساعات أما مع العاصمة دمشق فترتبط بطريق دولي واسع يمر عبر حمص وحماة ويصل طوله 350كلم وحوالي 5ساعات بالسيارة وعندما يصل السائح إلى حلب بأي وسيلة نقل كانت وإذا ما استقل التاكسي فلن يجد صعوبة في الطلب من السائق أن يوصله إلى فندق بارون، حيث يعرفه جميع سائقي السيارات التاكسي والسرفيس في المدينة ويمكن لمن يرغب في معرفة المزيد عن الوصول إلى الفندق وزيارته وكيفية الإقامة به فهذه بعض المعلومات الرقمية عنه: هاتف: 00963212110880 والفاكس: 00963212110883 hotelbaron@scs-net.org وhotelbaron@mail.sy
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07-13-2008, 06:20 PM
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soukrat

Joined on 11-20-2005
germany
Posts 11,465

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».. مطعم يدخل موسوعة غينيس من بابها الواسع
يعد الأكبر في العالم وأكلاته متنوعة شرقية وغربية
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منظر عام لمطعم «بوابة دمشق» («الشرق الأوسط») |
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دمشق: هشام عدرة انتشر في السنوات العشر الأخيرة العديد من المطاعم الضخمة وبمساحات واسعة على جانبي طريق مطار دمشق الدولي في منطقة غوطة دمشق الشرقية وكان من أشهرها وأكبرها مطعم بوابة دمشق الذي أنشأه رجل الأعمال السوري شاكر السمان القادم من الكويت بعد اغتراب عن دمشق دام أربعين عاماً وأطلق منشآته التي حرص على أن تتضمن مطاعم متنوعة شرقية وغربية وبديكورات استلهمها مهندس المنشأة من التراث وبما يتناسب مع كل قسم من أقسام المطعم الذي دشّن بافتتاح كبير المستوى في عام 2002 حيث تحتوي هذه المنشأة على عدة مطاعم أحدها المطعم الهندي المتخصص بكادره الهندي ومأكولاته الهندية المتنوعة وهناك أيضاً المطعم الإيطالي والمطعم الصيني والمطعم الحلبي والشرقي. يدير هذه المنشأة الضخمة نجل صاحب المطعم (مهند السمان) الذي تحدث لـ «الشرق الأوسط» قائلاً: عملت منذ تكليفي إدارة هذه المنشأة على إدخال كافة الخدمات السياحية الحديثة والراقية حتى دخل موسوعة غينيس كأكبر وأضخم مطعم في العالم وذلك في 15 مايو 2008 بعد تحقيقه لكل المواصفات والمعايير المطلوبة بعد أن حطم الرقم القياسي السابق في مطعم بتايلاند يدعى (التنين الذهبي) بفارق 1012 كرسيا حيث يتسع المطعم التايلاندي حتى 5000 كرسي بينما مطعم بوابة دمشق يتسع حتى 6012 كرسيا ويعمل في البوابة 1200 ـ 1800 عامل في وقت الذروة وبه مطبخ يندر وجوده ويعتبر أكبر المطاعم في العالم على الاطلاق، حيث يحتوي على تجهيزات مهمة جداً... حتى أن (لورا فارمر) المندوبة من قبل موسوعة غينيس في بريطانيا أطلقت عليه اسم «معمل» حين قالت إن هذا معمل وليس مطبخاً وتبلغ مساحة المطعم 54 ألف متر مربع، ونجد في بوابة دمشق التراسات الصيفية الكبيرة إضافة إلى صالة زنوبيا التي تتسع لأكثر من 2500 شخص وتنقسم هذه الصالة إلى عدة أركان ومن ضمنها الركن الكويتي وذلك وفاء للكويت ولشعبها الطيب الذي احتضن والدي مدة أربعين عاماً بكل الكرم والمحبة. ونجول في مطعم بوابة دمشق برفقة مديره مهند السمان منطلقين من الصالة الرئيسية، حيث تطل منها آثار مدينة تدمر العريقة لتنكشف أمامنا الجنات الخضراء والنوافير الرقراقة والشلالات الأخاذة والبحيرات التي تعزف سيمفونية الماء الخالدة فتضعنا في جو غوطة دمشق الساحرة أما من جهة اليمين فترتفع تراسات لترينا المنظر أجمل وأبهى وعلى يسار الزائر هناك الركن الحلبي الممتلئ بعبق الحارة القديمة بأراكيلها وعرقسوسها ولباسها التقليدي الزاخر بالحكايات والذكريات. ومن الصالة الرئيسية ندخل: (بوابة الهند) ـ تاج محل ـ درة معالم الهند، حيث يتجسد أمامنا ونمر عبره ليفاجئنا شلال في قمة جمال المنظر والتصميم وبجانبه نافورة مياه تحمل الزائر على بساط الريح إلى عوالم الماضي وأصالته ـ يتابع مهند ـ في المطعم الهندي قاعة صممت لتدهشك بروعة هندستها وزخارفها التي تتعانق وتتمازج فيها الحضارة الشرقية مع الروح العربية الأندلسية، المطعم مؤلف من طابقين وفيه قاعة مخصصة لكبار الضيوف والمطعم الهندي يقدم المأكولات الهندية والصينية بأيد هندية مختصة وكذلك المأكولات الإيطالية وكل ما يتمناه الضيف سيجده في هذا المكان الرائع. وننتقل إلى قاعة زنوبيا، هنا يقف التاريخ مدهشاً مع حضارة تدمر العريقة ويؤكد مهند السمان قائلاً: في سبيل حرصنا على تكامل الخدمات أنشأنا صالة زنوبيا ولأنها ملكة تدمر القوية فالصالة المغطاة والمغلقة التي تحمل اسمها هي الأفخم والأجمل في الشرق الأوسط تتوزع فيها خمس نوافير مائية وفيها أربع شاشات سينمائية وست شاشات تلفزيونية داعمة لها. تقدم الصالة المأكولات البحرية الطازجة التي تصل يومياً من الخليج العربي إضافة إلى المأكولات الشرقية والغربية المعروفة، وصالة زنوبيا مجهزة بكل التقنيات الحديثة الراقية لتقوم بكل واجبات المناسبات من أفراح ومؤتمرات وندوات علمية، لقد تكامل الفن والإبداع والخبرة في هذه الصالة الرائعة حرصاً من الإدارة على ثقة ضيوفها. وننتقل لقاعة الشرف، حيث تنفرد مطاعم بوابة دمشق بقاعة الشرف المخصصة لاستقبال كبار الشخصيات والمسؤولين وتعد من أكبر وأفخم قاعات الاستقبال نظراً لطابعها الرسمي المتميز ودفء لوحاتها التي تبرز أبنية وحارات دمشق القديمة. ولم ينس صاحب المنشأة السمان تكامل الطعام مع التسلية والترفيه فخصص قسماً من منشأته للألعاب تحدث عنها مهند قائلاً: حرصنا أن يكون للترفيه مكان خاص ومتميز بكل ما فيه من وسائل أمان وراحة يضفي البهجة والإثارة على الضيوف الذين بإمكانهم الاطمئنان على سلامة أطفالهم حيث السينما ثلاثية الابعاد وهي الأولى في سورية وكذلك أحدث وأجمل ألعاب الفيديو إضافة إلى مضمار لسباق الدراجات الصغيرة وساحة للسيارات الكهربائية وقطار كهربائي مميز وألعاب أخرى متنوعة. وننهي جولتنا في بوابة دمشق الذي أدخل دمشق موسوعة غينيس في المطبخ (المعمل) كما أطلقت عليه البريطانية لورا فارمر مندوبة غينيس حيث يفشي مهند سر طعام وخدمة مطاعمه قائلاً: سر مطبخنا الطهاة المهرة المختصون في كل أصناف المأكولات وسر نجاح طاقم الخدمة الذي يسعى بحب وشغف لإرضاء ضيوفنا، فمطبخنا يضم أكثر من مائتي عامل وفني مجهزين بأحدث المعدات التي تلبي المتطلبات والشيف لا يرضى إلا بالكمال والغاية من وراء ذلك تقديم أطيب المأكولات بأفضل خدمة.
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07-24-2008, 10:05 AM
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